Cape Leveque Overnight Stay

Today we are in for a treat as we are heading to The Kooljaman Safari Camp owned and operated by the local indigenous people.


We spoke to the staff at the camp we are in and they agreed to us leaving our van on site and gave us a reduced rate to do so and then stored our food in their freezer and fridge which we will collect when we return, amazing service.

First we have to get the Pajero ready for the drive as it’s 220 km and 90 km of that is red dirt, corrugated and with plenty of jumps and rutting. We head in to town and drop the tyre pressures down to 25 to make the trip a little softer. We pack a small bag with the essentials of champagne and red wine then head off.
The road is not too bad as we start the drive on black top but it soon goes down hill as we go from black tar to red earth. We get smashed on quite a few jumps as we try and keep the speed up and we pass several slower cars who seem a bit shocked by the condition of the road. Our old Scottish ice, fog and snow experience seems to help as we slide about like we were playing a video game. This lasts about and hour and and a half before we finally get back on to to the black top.

We arrive at the camp and get shown to our accomodation which is a tent with a bed and not much else. We made the wise move of bringing our own pillows as that makes such a difference to a nights sleep. We do a quick tour of the facilities and then headed off to view the beach and other accomodation on offer which are huge safari tents overlooking the ocean. We have seen some amazing beaches on this trip but the beach here is an absolute stunner with beautiful white sand, the bluest water ever and the temperature is just perfect with the bonus that there is no one on it. We don’t hang about, get in and get some of the road dirt off us.



We have booked a whale watching trip and after our swim we get picked up and driven on to the beach where we get on to the boat and head out to see some whales. Its like a staff outing as we seem to be the only guests on the trip. We are really lucky and get to see a mother and calf quite quickly and then another pod of about 6 one of which breached high out of the water before crashing down and creating a huge wave. Then what seemed like ages spent motoring around we spotted a spout of water and there right in front and coming directly for the boat is a whale which looks like a trident submarine and luckily for us it takes a dive under the boat then sinks deep below the water. Didn’t get any decent pics as it all happens very fast and they are gone. We also get to see several or maybe the same sea snake and a thing we had never seen which was a flying fish. This thing flew past the boat at an amazing speed and continued for about 500 meters before splashing back in to the sea, bloody amazing and again no photo. We cruise about for another while and see a few more whales before we start to motor back to shore where the land cruiser is waiting to drive us back up the dunes to our tent. On the way we get a treat as an Eagle lands on the beach to watch us leave.

We don’t have a lot of time and get a scrub up and change of clothes before heading over to the restaurant where we have booked a table for dinner at Raugi’s.


First we head over to the deck overlooking the ocean and watch another beautiful sunset and enjoy a couple of glasses of Moët. Followed by a second and well that ends when the bottle is empty.

We take our sunset faces in to the restaurant and are shown to our table.
We are amazed to find that the chef here, is Joseph McGrattan an Irishman who also happens to be a Michelin trained chef, has been all over the world but now calls Australia home. We get in to reading the menu whilst we start our second drinks course of a nice bottle of Barossa red wine. There is no alcohol served here but you are welcome to byo, pay a corkage per head and the restaurant provides beautiful wine glasses.


Now on to the food. Chef McGrattan uses the best produce but also includes local bush ingredients which add heaps to the flavour and structure of the food on offer.

The food provided is some of the best we have ever had anywhere and do the dead of taking a pic of both mains.

There was a creme brûlée on the menu which we had great intentions of having to share but having scoffed both starter and main dishes we couldn’t manage it as we would have exploded. We thanks the chefs pay up and head to the tent for a well earned nights sleep as we are both knackered.

Morning arrives and as usual it’s a stunner. 7.30 am we decide to have another swim and this time move along the beach a bit and the water is just heavenly.

We splash about for a while, take some pic’s and then get back up where it is already time to leave but not before we head back to the restaurant for some breakfast. If last nights food was good the breakfast is equally as amazing and has not just black pudding but smoked black pudding which the chefs smoke themselves. We have never heard of this before but it was just fantastic and is brought in from Perth, WA and as I say smoked on the premises, bloody delicious along with perfect poached eggs, hickory bacon and toasted Turkish bread washed down a couple mugs of coffee.


We hit the road and head back to repeat the trip out with me doing the driving. At least this time we know what to expect and get the hammer down to get as far as possible as fast as possible. Luckily the speed limit here is 110 km and we make great time before we reach the dirt. We are going along quite fast bouncing and sliding round bends in the dirt having a laugh before we hit a massive jump and the Pajero is airborne and turning sideways toward the massive pile of graded dirt at the side of the road. We both let the expletives fly before we crash land and manage to avoid the worst of the dirt and decide we might not do 100km and hour now, lol.
We still pass quite a few folks who make it easy by moving over and slowing down to let us both see and overtake them but we come up behind. A couple of groups in Toyota Prado’s who do not slowdown or move over to let us past and we end up having to follow them to the end of the road back to Broome but it wasn’t that far luckily.
We grab our food which we stored and headed back to the van amazed that it all went so quickly. We feed the Wallabies and Kangaroos, give them some water and take some pics.


Late in the afternoon a truck arrives but hang on on it’s not a truck, well it is a truck but it is a motor home truck which has a trailer on the back where a car is stored for going to the shops etc. I said if it was mine, I would on the back of it ” We are the joneses”. They use Walkie talkies to park the thing then its all automatic as the entire thing widens out and nearly doubles in size. Yep, we are very poor it seems.

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